Walking in the Valais. Kev Reynolds

by returning to the head of the gully you ascended to reach the hut, and across this follow waymarks up some slabs. Curve around these and descend a metal ladder, at the foot of which you curve to the right and shortly climb a second, long metal ladder bolted against more slabs. On reaching the top of this a sign indicates a viewpoint 5mins to the right. This is a diversion worth taking – it weaves among larch and pine trees to a dome of slabs which you mount with the aid of rungs and fixed cable to gain a tremendous viewpoint at about 1800m, overlooking the lower Fieschertal and back to the Burg Hut and the Fiescherhörner.

      Return to the sign at the top of the ladder and curve left. You will shortly come to a seat with a sign explaining that the Fieschergletscher is about 15km long, but between 1891 and 2010 it lost about 1000m of its length.

      There follows a lovely descent among birch, pine and larch trees down a domed granite rib. On coming to a track turn right and wander easily along it to Titter (1627m), the head of a works cableway with a few buildings nearby. Here you take a path descending into pinewoods. Come to a pair of small wooden chalets, below which you go through more trees and emerge to another fine viewpoint overlooking the valley. Passing another tiny timber chalet the way goes over bare slabs, then steeply down to more trees and another junction.

      Take the route towards Unnerbärg and Fieschertal, curving right over yet more slabs to another chalet, then into woodland. On coming to another junction descend left and before long you will reach yet another junction – this one unmarked – just to the left of a stream. Ignore the left-hand option and continue downhill. The path eventually brings you onto a narrow road at Unnerbärg (1300m) where you turn right.

      Soon come to a junction and bear left to wander down the road which, at the next hairpin, rejoins the outward route. A footpath shortcut leads down to the road again where it crosses the stream. Eventually (about 1hr 10mins from the hut) the road cuts through rocks. A path then breaks to the right to descend to the little hamlet of Zer Brigge. When the way forks, keep ahead and arrive in Fieschertal soon after.

WALK 2

      Fieschertal (1108m) – Gletscherstube Märjela (2373m)

Distance	6km
Grade	2–3
Time	4½hrs
Height gain	1265m
Location	Northwest of Fieschertal

      With a lot of height to gain, this is quite a demanding walk, but the scenery is lovely throughout and the paths are mostly good. The Gletscherstube Märjela (also known as the Märjela Hut) is located near the Grosser Aletschgletscher, so it would be worth spending a night there, and next day take your time to walk beside the glacier as described in Walks 5 and 6. Should this be your intention, make a point of phoning ahead (Tel [phone]) to reserve a bed.

      Follow directions given in Walk 1 as far as the Klettergarten junction at 1573m – about 1½hrs to here. While the route to the Burg Hut branches right, continue ahead among trees, steadily gaining height for another 50–60mins where there’s another path junction. This is known as Stock (1931m), and once again the right-hand option goes to the Burg Hut. Our route is optimistically signed to Märjela in 1hr 40mins.

      The way now climbs steeply up the wooded crest of an old moraine, gaining spectacular views of the Fiescherhörner and the glacier gorge below, while the Fiescher glacier itself can be seen ahead to the right. On gaining the top of this moraine the path suddenly swings left to begin a long, steadily rising traverse of a steep grass slope at the head of the valley. In early summer alpine flowers flank the path; there are a few minor streams to cross, and as height is gained, the way makes a few zigzags and eventually comes into the Märjelental near some ruined stone huts. Keep ahead to a small reservoir, at the far end of which you will come to the Gletscherstube Märjela (2373m accommodation, refreshments).

WALK 3

      Burg Hut (1751m) – Gletscherstube Märjela (2373m)

Distance	4km
Grade	3
Time	2½hrs
Height gain	622m
Location	West of the Burg Hut

      Walkers who have spent the night at the Burg Hut and wish to continue to the Märjelensee and the Aletschgletscher, will be tempted by this splendid connecting route. But a warning is given that the first 30mins above the hut will be unsuitable for anyone who might suffer vertigo.

      Climbing above the Burg Hut rewards with a stunning view of the Fiescherhörner

      Out of the hut turn left where blue waymarks that indicate an ‘Alpine route’ lead to a cable attached to the rock slabs rising above the hut. Using this (and subsequent fixed cables) for security, climb the slabs onto the crest of a ridge where a continuing path weaves among silver birch, larch and small fir trees. Views are exciting, with the glacier gorge dropping far below, and the imposing Fiescherhörner dominating the scene ahead to the northwest.

      Along the ridge frequent waymarks guide you northward, with two or three more lengths of fixed cable and a few metal stanchions for support, before a path eases along the left-hand side among trees, and brings you to the Stock junction at 1931m. It is here that you join Walk 2. Turn right to climb the steep crest of moraine and follow directions to Gletscherstube Märjela as given in Walk 2.

WALK 4

      Fiescheralp (2205m) – Gletscherstube Märjela (2373m)

Distance	6km
Grade	1–2
Time	1½hrs
Height gain	168m
Location	Northwest of Fiesch (to Fiescheralp)

      Our third approach to the Gletscherstube Märjela is the shortest and by far the easiest, for it is on a broad path nearly all the way and with a modest amount of height to gain. As the path goes through a 1km long tunnel, a headtorch could be useful as a precaution, although the tunnel is usually lit. Fiescheralp is reached by cablecar from Fiesch. During research this operated in summer on the hour and every half-hour from 8am until 6pm – but check times before you set out to ensure you don’t miss the last cablecar down.

      Leaving the Fiescheralp cablecar station, turn right on a road signed to Obers Tälli and Gletscherstube Märjela. After a few paces take the left branch when the road forks. Now on a track which soon contours along the hillside, attractive mountain views include both the Matterhorn and Weisshorn if you look behind you. When a path breaks left to climb the Eggishorn, remain on the track which comes to a multi-way junction shortly after. Take the left branch, and at the next fork choose the lower option ahead.

      About 30mins from the cablecar station the track curves leftwards by a cattle byre (note the fine views behind you); it then twists round and over a spur to reveal an enticing view of the Finsteraarhorn, Fieschergletscher, the Wannenhorn and Fiescherhorn. The distant Eiger also intrudes on the view, while across a basin can be seen the entrance to the tunnel that leads to the Märjelensee.

      Curving round the basin above the huts of Obers Tälli, reach the tunnel entrance. Walk through the kilometre-long tunnel which is illuminated by strip lights – it takes 15–20mins to reach the exit. Be careful on the uneven floor where there are often pools of water lying. On emerging by the side of a shallow pond, you will see the Gletscherstube Märjela (2373m: 1hr 30mins: accommodation, refreshments) just ahead.

WALK 5

      Gletscherstube Märjela (2373m) – Aletschgletscher – Biel (2286m) – Fiescheralp (2205m)

Distance	10km
Grade	2
Time	3–3½hrs
Height loss	168m
Location	Initially west of the Gletscherstube

      The undulating path which traces the left bank of the Grosser Aletschgletscher rewards with stupendous views all the way, and should be walked slowly and with plenty of stops to absorb the scenery. Take a packed lunch and make a day of it.

      The Märjelental