The South West Coast Path. Paddy Dillon

out for a gate on the right, where the Coast Path runs down to a campsite. Keep to the right-hand side of the campsite – unless visiting their little shop – to return to the main road and turn right. Pass a bus stop and follow a path parallel to the main road until opposite the Watermouth Castle theme park.

      At low water a route can be used along the shore at Water Mouth, but at high water continue up the main road, using the pavement, until steps on the right give access to a path on a wooded slope. Both routes join here and continue parallel to the road, and a right turn at the edge of the wood reveals the Coast Path leading to the mouth of this scenic inlet. A steep flight of steps climb to a fine viewpoint on Widmouth Head.

      Walk down steps and follow the path around Rillage Point, catching a glimpse of Ilfracombe before it rises to a car park. Turn right and walk parallel to the main road, then turn sharp right at a pub, down the road to Hele Bay, where there is a café.

      A steep flight of steps and a zigzag path climbs a wooded slope, almost reaching the top of Hillsborough. This is crowned with the rumpled earthen remains of a hillfort and offers fine views. Follow a path downhill, watching for markers at junctions, then watch for metal footprints embedded in tarmac paths, keeping left of the harbour while entering Ilfracombe. At the head of the harbour, turn right from Hiern’s Lane onto Broad Street.

      ILFRACOMBE

      The bustling town of Ilfracombe developed around a wonderful natural harbour and has been a fishing port for centuries. The restored chapel dedicated to St Nicholas, on Lantern Hill overlooking the harbour, dates from the 14th century. In the 19th century the town developed as a splendid holiday resort, served by steamships and a railway (now gone), with rows of fine hotels. There are boat trips available, as well as summer steamer services to Lundy Island. You can forecast the weather as follows: ‘Lundy high, sign of dry; Lundy plain, sign of rain; Lundy low, sign of snow’. Damien Hirst’s sculpture – ‘Verity’ – dominates the harbour.

      Facilities include abundant accommodation of all types, including a nearby campsite. There are banks with ATMs, post office, shops, toilets, several pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses back to Combe Martin, Lynmouth, Porlock, Minehead and Taunton, as well as ahead to Braunton and Barnstaple via the Exmoor Coastlink service. Buses also run to Lee Bay, Woolacombe, Croyde Bay and Saunton. National Express buses run from Ilfracombe to London. Tourist information centre: Landmark Theatre, The Seafront, Ilfracombe, Devon EX34 9BX, tel [phone], www.visitilfracombe.co.uk, [email protected].

      A view back to Capstone Point and Hillsborough from an easy coastal path at Ilfracombe

      Leave Broad Street in Ilfracombe by turning left up Capstone Road, then turn right along a broad tarmac cliff path, around Capstone Point. Walk towards the curious upturned bucket shapes of the Landmark Theatre and climb up concrete steps on the seaward side. A tarmac path leads up to a road bend.

      Turn right along Granville Road, then bear right as marked for the Coast Path up Torrs Park Avenue. Turn right at Avoncourt and follow the Coast Path as signposted for Lee to leave Ilfracombe. The path known as the Torrs Walk has been hacked from the bedrock in places, and as it wanders along the cliffs it begins to zigzag uphill. A turning on the right leads to a viewpoint looking back to Ilfracombe.

      As the Coast Path continues, look out for signs and stiles as it wanders across grassy slopes away from town. Turn right along a clear track that’s marked with an iron sign as ‘Public Path – Please keep to it’. The track is covered in short grass in places and eventually descends to a gate and a narrow road. Walk straight down the road (unless you’re tempted by a path on the left leading to the village of Lee); it steepens at the bottom, where a right turn leads to Lee Bay. There’s a pub a short way inland, as well as bus services back to Ilfracombe.

      Follow the road uphill to leave Lee Bay, watching for steps and a gate on the right, where there’s a National Trust sign for Damage Cliffs. The route becomes like a roller-coaster, with flights of steps leading into and out of a couple of little valleys, with footbridges crossing small streams near beaches. There’s a lighthouse on Bull Point and the path crosses its access road before crossing a dip above Rockham Bay, where beach access is currently closed. Paths inland are signposted for Mortehoe, which offers accommodation, campsite, post office shop, pubs and cafés.

      Keep to the Coast Path to reach rocky Morte Point, where a sharp left turn is made. The path becomes easier as it heads for the seaward side of Mortehoe village. The path climbs steeply and joins a road. Turn right and walk down the road, then watch for any paths and grassy areas between the road and the coast on the way into Woolacombe. Either break at this point or head onwards for Croyde Bay, Saunton and Braunton.

      WOOLACOMBE

      Woolacombe is essentially a 20th-century holiday resort that’s developed from a farming settlement. It has an astounding sandy beach, popular with surfers.

      Facilities include accommodation of all types, including nearby campsites. There’s a bank with ATM, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses to Ilfracombe, Saunton, Braunton and Barnstaple. Tourist information centre: The Esplanade, Woolacombe, Devon EX34 7DL, tel [phone], www.woolacombetourism.co.uk, [email protected].

STAGE 5

      Woolacombe to Braunton

Start	Crossroads, Woolacombe (SS 457 438)
Finish	Velator, Braunton (SS 486 358)
Distance	24.5km (15¼ miles)
Ascent	430m (1410ft)
Time	6hrs
Terrain	Easy paths and tracks, sometimes with the option of walking along sandy beaches.
Maps	OS Landranger 180, OS Explorer 139, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1
Refreshments	Cafés at Putsborough Sands and Croyde Bay. Hotel and café at Saunton. Plenty of choice off-route at Braunton.

      This is the easiest day so far, although much depends on how you feel after tackling the route to this point. Gradients are easy and there are a couple of fine, sandy beaches that beckon enticingly at low water. Breaks can be taken at Croyde Bay and Saunton, before a circuitous exploration of the dunes of Braunton Burrows. This extensive area often seems remote from the sea, and although it is a National Nature Reserve, a large part is used for military training. Sadly, some walkers skip it entirely – even catching a bus all the way from Saunton to Westward Ho! Those who start doing things like this often find excuses to do it again and again, leaving their trail in tatters!

      It’s tempting on leaving Woolacombe to walk along the broad, sandy beach towards Baggy Point. This is fine if the tide doesn’t push you close to the land, where slopes of soft sand prove heavy-going. The Coast Path leaves by way of Marine Drive; when this climbs up towards The Warren, head off to the right along a path.

      Aim to follow the path between the sea and Marine Drive. The road is little more than a linear car park at busy periods. Avoid spurs to the right and left that lead either down to the beach or up to the road. At the same time, while walking through the scrubby dunes, look out for a path heading uphill to join