The National Trails. Paddy Dillon

which is surely one of the great joys of travel.

      A big, heavy, bulky pack is not only a tiresome burden, but an awkward one too. At some point a big pack will stick in narrow stiles, hit low branches, lodge in doorways, catch you off-balance in a gale, and probably clobber your travelling companion if you have one. Sometimes it may be funny, more often it will be annoying, and if you’re unlucky it could cause serious injury. Heavy packs also cause the wearer to lean forward, which stresses joints and restricts vision to the sight of feet shuffling monotonously onwards. A smaller, lighter pack leaves the wearer free to stand upright, walk tall and enjoy the splendour of the countryside.

      A view of Loch Trool, close to the site of Robert the Bruce’s famous ambush site (Day 3, Southern Upland Way)

      Before choosing to buy, read gear reviews in outdoor magazines, quiz retailers mercilessly, and continually ask yourself whether you really need everything on your list, or whether you can live without some of it. If you plan to trek with someone, a burden shared is a burden halved – a shared two-person tent is lighter than two one-person tents. Obviously you’ll still need two sleeping bags, but you won’t need two stoves, and coordinated packing means that both of you can carry considerably less than if you were travelling alone.

      Baggage-carrying services operate on popular trails, while some companies offering self-guided walking tours arrange for accommodation providers to move baggage to the next night’s lodging. All of a sudden there is no need to think light – rather, it becomes very tempting to over-pack and include plenty of extra clothing, footwear and special treats. Having someone else move your pack will be expensive, but many walkers are happy to pay the price in order to be able to travel light.

      Best Time of Year

      Because many people take a summer holiday, it follows that many walkers who want to follow a national trail will do so in the summer. The weather is usually better and the daylight hours are longer, but bear in mind that some places will be very busy, and if using indoor accommodation it is wise to book well in advance to secure beds.

      Most of the national trails could be walked at any time of year, although walkers have been asked not to follow the Hadrian’s Wall Path in the winter months, as the wet and muddy ground is easily eroded and this can lead to underlying archaeology being damaged. Those who wish to tackle one of the more remote high-level trails in winter should be aware that weather conditions can be severe – the highest stretch of the Pennine Way, for instance, holds the English records for the highest wind-speeds and most prolonged sub-zero temperatures!

      In very general terms, trails in the gentle southeast of England will be easier to walk early in the year than trails further north, or at a higher level. The South West Coast Path can be a problem if attempted too early or too late in the year, since some of the crucial ferries across tidal inlets may not be operating. Heading far north into Scotland, midwinter daylight hours are really very short – as little as six hours. Spring starts early in the south of England and arrives later in northern Scotland, and springtime walkers can enjoy immensely colourful swathes of wild flowers, while deciduous trees gradually come into leaf. Autumn comes earlier in northern Scotland than in the south of England, and again this can be a delightful time to walk, as trees and bracken turn russet and gold. Provided the winter is not too wet and windy, walking a national trail can be enjoyable, but remember that accommodation and services might not be fully available. Deep snow is rare, but will lead to serious problems if progress is reduced to a crawl. On balance, long-distance walking in winter is best left to those with plenty of experience of difficult conditions.

      In well-cultivated countryside, which generally means lowland regions, it is interesting to follow the slow rhythm of the seasons from the farmer’s perspective. Ploughing and sowing is followed by a period of slow growth where earthy colours are gradually replaced by fresh greens. Sheep give birth to their lambs, and cows to calves. Orchards bloom in spring, while oilseed rape blazes bright yellow in early summer, with wheat and barley turning gold in late summer. Come the harvest, apples and potatoes are picked and packed, cereal crops are mown down to stubble, and the land is prepared for the next crop. Those who walk throughout the year can observe the life and work of country folk, and if you use farmhouse accommodation, you can make further enquiries from those who know best.

      Making Time

      Most people have busy schedules at home and work, and it may seem almost impossible to pull together the necessary week or two to tackle a long-distance walk, especially if there are others who also have a claim on your precious holiday time. Some people are prepared to wait until retirement to chase their dream of walking a national trail, which is fair enough if you can bear to wait that long, but alternatively, you could clear a space in your diary and let nothing, absolutely nothing, occupy that space. Even if your life is filled with routines and you imagine yourself to be indispensable at home and work, you will find that most routines are easily broken, and you may be nowhere near as indispensable as you might like to think!

      If you are the type who worries about whether you left the gas on at home, or cancelled the milk, or put out the cat before hitting the trail, then you probably need to relieve these worries by leaving someone in charge of things in your absence. If you like to ‘take work with you’ on your travels, then constantly phoning the office and chasing people will eat into your time on the trail, and is bound to limit your enjoyment. Moreover, if you intend to be in constant contact with the world while you walk, bear in mind that a mobile phone signal may not always be available when you want one.

      My own preferred approach is simply to tidy up any remaining work, leave the house, and think no more about it until I return. Travelling by public transport to the trail, I’m happy to watch the scenery go by and take an occasional peek at my maps to familiarise myself more with the route. Loved ones will receive a postcard and my best wishes, while I make the most of the open trail and enjoy the walk to the greatest possible extent.

      Swanlake Bay and West Moor Cliff, seen from East Moor Cliff near Manorbier (Day 11, Pembrokeshire Coast Path)

      A well-wooded stretch of the riverside path on the approach to Reading (Day 5, Thames Path)

      Who’s Going?

      Some people prefer to walk on their own, others prefer company – there are no rules, but obviously anyone walking on their own is entirely responsible for their own safety. The solitary walker is a silent traveller, who probably notices more wildlife, and can please themselves when to walk, how far to walk, where to stay, where to eat, and generally is in control of everything that goes to make an enjoyable trip. On the other hand, walking with a companion is a joy shared, although a companion whose opinions and tastes differ radically to your own can either be a refreshing challenge, or a recipe for disaster.

      I’m very much a solitary walker on the national trails, since I prefer the flexibility it gives me with all my arrangements. I meet other solitary walkers, of course, as well as couples and small groups of friends. Very rarely I meet a large group – either friends, or people who have enrolled for a tour offered by a guided walking holiday company. Walkers can be teenagers or senior citizens, and there are occasional families who walk the trails with very young and energetic children.

      On the flip side, there are also people who seem entirely unsuited to walking long-distance routes, cursing their ill luck, or lamenting the performance of their companions, partners or children. Often enough, people you meet will be passing travellers, never to be seen again, but sometimes they will be walking your way for days on end and may become firm friends. There is no ‘typical’ long-distance walker – they come in all ages, shapes and sizes, as rich and varied as humanity itself. Some enjoy the experience, and some – sadly – seem to hate it, but they all share a common purpose on the trail.

      Planning

      This guide presents all the national trails to prospective walkers in a way that