TABLE TALES. Richard Alther

finely chopped

      8 tablespoons Swiss cheese, grated

      Egg Batter

      1¼ cups whole milk

      1 cup heavy cream

      ¼ cup cornstarch

      2 large eggs

      2 large egg yolks

      ¼ teaspoon salt

      dash of cayenne

       TIME SAVER

      For large parties prepare many batches and freeze. Recently I found a batch of 40 clafoutis in my freezer that had been there for almost six months. Skeptically, I thawed and warmed them. Again, as good as when they were first made. I’m not sure how long this can be stretched out, but it shows that large parties can be prepared for months ahead.

      This is an interesting variation on the classic French dessert: a dessert usually made with fresh fruit (peaches, cherries, berries, etc.) and an egg mixture. In the savory version any number of flavors can be added (onions, cheeses, olives, almost any herb, etc.). I’ve chosen for this recipe to use Swiss cheese, fresh dill, and cooked shrimp. These bite sized appetizers are served warm and have always been appreciated by our guests.

       Heat oven to 450°.

       Line up the 4 muffin tins and spray with the no-stick oil.

       Add to the tins: first a good-sized pinch of grated cheese; then the fresh dill; then the shrimp.

       Blend all the ingredients for the egg batter in a processor, and then divide the batter equally between the 48 wells in the tins. I usually fill the wells first about three quarters full, and top off with the remaining batter.

       Bake on two racks in the oven for 15 to 18 minutes, until the clafoutis turn golden and puff. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 15 minutes. If the clafoutis do not slip out of the tins easily, carefully run a sharp knife around the edges and lift.

      The clafoutis are ready to serve at this point. However, I never do. Even if I plan to serve them the same day, I always freeze them in layers in freezer bags. They can stay frozen for weeks. When ready to serve, simply remove the quantity you need and place on a small baking sheet. They can be warmed in an oven (200°) for 10 to 15 minutes and will taste as good as they did when originally made.

       AFTER THOUGHTS

      Make several varieties, label and freeze. Serve two or three different kinds at the same event. Another favorite of mine is kalamata olives and feta cheese. Try your own flavor ideas.

      Crab and Shrimp Strudel with Basil Sauce

       SERVES 8–12

1 pound lump crab (fresh, or canned from the refrigerated section) *

      1 pound cooked shrimp (frozen and thawed works well)

      1 cup basil-mayonnaise (see below, along with recipe for basil sauce)

      5 eggs (or comparable amount of packaged egg whites like “egg beaters”

      ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

      1 teaspoon salt (or to taste)

      1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

      20 sheets phyllo (also called fillo) dough, defrosted – usually one frozen package; but you might have two, to be on the safe side

      ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter

      parchment paper

      Also – an electric serrated carving knife (makes slicing strudel much easier)

* The best lump blue crab is found fresh in the markets in Maryland near the Chesapeake Bay. Short of living in this area I’ve found the best lump crab in the refrigerator section of COSTCO. (Who would have thought?)

      Having spent some time in Austria and Hungary, I was aware of many forms of sweet dessert or breakfast strudels; all delightful. Recently, while learning more about using fillo dough in strudels, I decided to try the concept using savory fillings. This one works well for a first course, but can also be used as a main course by making the slices thicker.

      Shrimp and Crab Mixture

       In large mixing bowl add lump crab, making sure no small shells remain.

       Cut the shrimp into medium size pieces (¼–½ inch) and add to crab. (Shrimp can be chopped smaller but I find that the larger chunks add more interest because of the texture and flavor.)

       Add all remaining ingredients, except the panko, and toss gently, so as not to mush the crab lumps too much. The mixture will be somewhat “watery” because of the mayo and the eggs. Now sprinkle the panko over the mixture and work in until the texture feels almost like a bread dough.

       (This is the point where you have to make a decision: either to make one strudel roll – for 4-6 people or two rolls – for 8-12. If you only want to make one strudel roll only use half the mixture, and put the remaining in a plastic container, as airtight as possible, for later use.)

      For the Fillo Dough

       Unwrap the thawed fillo sheets and unroll on a flat surface. It is important to be gentle with the sheets as they tear easily.

       In a microwave oven melt one stick of butter (cut into several pieces) for 45 seconds to one minute.

       Place a sheet of parchment paper (larger than the fillo sheets) on your working surface, with the narrow end closest to you. Gently place one sheet of fillo on parchment and, with a pastry brush, spread a thin layer of the melted butter over the entire fillo sheet. (Again, gently spread the butter so as not to tear the sheet). Top with another sheet of fillo and again spread with melted butter. Repeat until you have 10 sheets of fillo and butter.

      Crab and Shrimp Strudel

      Assemble

       Take half the crab and shrimp mixture and form a “roll” on the top fillo sheet along the edge closest to you. Use your hands to form the mixture into as equal a roll as possible from end to end of sheet. Lift the parchment paper under the fillo layers (using a spatula if necessary) and begin rolling the fillo over the crab mixture away from you. Once started you can simply continue to roll the fillo, without the parchment, until you have formed the entire strudel roll, with the final edge of fillo under the roll.

       On a baking sheet place another sheet of parchment paper cut to the size of the baking sheet. Carefully