The Practical Dog Listener: The 30-Day Path to a Lifelong Understanding of Your Dog. Jan Fennell

mean a smaller dog: Great Danes and Saint Bernards love to lie around. On the other hand, people, like me, who find it hard to justify going out for a walk without a dog for company, are spoilt for choice. German shepherds, Labradors, springer spaniels are all suitable companions.

      You have to bear in mind the specifics of your situation. For example, I would not advise someone who is restricted in what they are able to do physically to take on dogs with heavy coats, breeds like the Afghan hound or rough collies. The demands these breeds make in terms of grooming are considerable. It is far better for people in this situation to go for a Labrador, a retriever or a Border collie, dogs that are less ‘high maintenance’ in this respect.

      You should also bear in mind the practicalities of training a dog. For instance, with the introduction of basic controls such as the ‘sit’ and ‘heel’, you will be required to do a lot of crouching and bending down to deal with your dog. Older, less mobile, people might want to bear in mind whether they are going to be capable of doing this with a small dog in particular. It is a lot easier to reach the eye level of a German shepherd than that of a lhasa apso.

      It is worth stating at this point that it is wrong to associate the size of the dog with the size of the task ahead of its new owner. Big dogs do not necessarily mean a bigger task in terms of training and maintaining them. Indeed, in my experience, some of the kindest, gentlest and easiest-trained dogs have been from the larger breeds. And some of the most uncooperative have been from the smaller ones.

      Of course, the best way to understand the type of dog you are acquiring is to study the breed. Each breed was originally evolved, through human intervention, to perform certain functions. Border collies and German shepherds were bred as sheepdogs, and are carers and herders. Beagles were bred to hunt. The Saint Bernard and the Newfoundland were bred as rescue dogs – it is why, in normal circumstances, they are such peaceful, placid dogs. It is only when an emergency arises that they leap into action. By the same token, lhasa apsos and Pekinese were bred as lapdogs. Breeds like this are, literally, custom-made for people who are looking for warmth, affection and companionship above all else. There are dogs to suit everyone.

      The one thing I would caution against is getting a dog purely because it is in vogue at a particular time. Certain breeds come into fashion every now and again. I can recall times here in Britain when the Afghan hound and the Old English sheepdog became incredibly ‘trendy’ dogs. The success of the film 101 Dalmatians suddenly made that breed popular. A short time later, when these breeds are no longer de rigueur, the sanctuaries and rescue centres are full of unwanted dogs. In the meantime, unscrupulous breeders will have gone into overtime producing as many puppies as possible, inflicting God-knows-what damage on the breed itself. If someone is going to choose an accessory from a fashion magazine, let it be a handbag, a pair of shoes or a dress – anything but a dog.

      EXPANDING PACKS: PREPARING FOR A NEW DOG

      The more I have observed and worked with humans and dogs, the more I have come to recognise our shared sense of family values. It is, of course, no accident that dogs possess a pack instinct as deep-rooted as our own. It is one of the reasons why our ancient ancestors forged an alliance with the dog, the first and most important animal to be domesticated by man. I mention it at this point because you must consider this when you expand your pack by introducing new dogs to a home that already has dogs. My method, as I have explained, allows you to position yourself as the leader of that pack. Yet, in situations where you already own two or more dogs, the dogs, too, will have a hierarchy. The natural result when a new dog is introduced into the pack is a situation where the dogs believe a leadership election is about to happen. I will deal in detail with this later on, but for now bear in mind that the introduction of a new dog is something that has to be planned with particular care.

      There are many other factors to consider. Mixing breeds, for instance, has to be thought about. A Japanese Akita and a German shepherd will get along together eventually, but there may be a great deal of friction before they settle into a routine together. Introducing a puppy less than nine months old to an existing pack is, in relative terms, a straightforward process. But here, too, you must bear in mind that placing a nine-month-old puppy in a home is the equivalent, in dog years, of introducing a hyperactive twelve-year-old to a human household. People always talk of one dog year being the equivalent of seven human years: in the case of the dog’s first year, however, this is more like sixteen years. Look at it this way: by nine months old, a bitch is physically capable of producing and raising children. Emotionally, however, she is nowhere near ready. You should always bear in mind the effect a newcomer like this might have on the chemistry of your existing pack.

      If you already have dogs, I therefore suggest you do two things before expanding the pack. Firstly, I recommend you introduce my method to the existing dogs first. This makes obvious sense on every level: the influence the existing dogs have on their new companion will be immense. If they have learned to live a fulfilling life by accepting you as their leader, the chances of the potentially disruptive newcomer accepting the status quo are hugely increased.

      Secondly, I also advise you to introduce the new dog to its prospective pack as soon as possible. The ideal option is to take the existing dogs to the breeder or rescue centre where the new dog is. This has several obvious advantages. In territorial terms, it is neutral ground. The new arrival will also be amongst people who know and can control it in the event of problems. Most importantly of all, if after a few meetings there is clearly a high degree of friction between the old and new dogs, you will have the chance to think again. Once more, you will be able to get a strong idea of whether a refuge is a reputable one or not from their handling of this whole process. Alarm bells should begin ringing if they are reluctant to allow you to bring your dogs to meet the potential family member. The danger signals become overwhelming if the refuge even hints at the sale being cut and dried.

      PREPARING THE HOME

      A dog does not really care whether its owner lives in a tent or a palace. The criteria it regards as important are more to do with the comfort, safety and quality of life it enjoys rather than the particulars of its surroundings. If only we humans were less materialistic sometimes: as long as a dog is cared for in the right way, it will be happy.

      In preparing to put my method into practice, I would advise you to make a few specific provisions around the home. Some of them are obvious, others less so. Each is important if life with a new dog is to get off on the right footing.

      Sleeping Quarters

      Decide where the dog is going to sleep. It is vital that the dog or puppy has its own space, its own refuge. It must be able to lie down on its side with about three to four inches to spare either side. It should have about the same space when it stretches out lengthwise. I personally like to use dog cages: my dogs seem to enjoy the idea that they have their own secure, enclosed space. I always leave the gate open so they can move freely. They are also perfect for travelling in the car.

      A dog does not need to have an expensive basket or kennel of its own; a supermarket cardboard box turned on its side provides a safe, secure space. I always find putting an old jumper in it helps. It provides warmth and cover but has the added advantage over a clean blanket that it also smells of the family.

      No-Go Areas

      Decide on the no-go areas in the home. There will be areas where you will not want the dog to stray, typically bathrooms and toilets, maybe a study or dining room. You should establish these areas in your mind in advance. Every member of the family should also be aware of the rules: instilling them into the dog will prove that much easier later on.

      

      Gates: With the above in mind, I recommend placing a children’s gate between the kitchen and the hallway. It ensures that the dog does not follow you everywhere, something that is a particular trait with puppies. At the same time, you will be able to keep an eye on the dog’s movements. The only thing to watch out for is that the gaps between the bars are not wide enough for the dog to get its head stuck.

      Garden: