Architectural Plants. Christine Shaw

While they are still in their pots, they are easy to move around until their exact positions have been decided on.

      A few thoughts

      Although the following are completely random thoughts, I do think that they are worth mentioning.

       Tools & equipment

      Whatever tools or gardening equipment you choose to purchase, please try to buy the best and most expensive offered. Good-quality garden tools should only have to be bought once, whereas cheap tools seldom last for more than a few years. This, of course, applies to almost all types of gardening. However, architectural plants are such a special range that they deserve the very best aftercare. An architectural plants garden often dispenses with the traditional lawn, as grass takes up valuable planting space. So, the money saved from not needing an expensive mower can go into the few really useful tools that are regularly required.

      Strong sturdy ladders are a must, and there are some beautifully made, lightweight Japanese ones currently on the market, which are worth every penny of the asking price. Similarly, if your choice of plants includes lots that require frequent clipping, such as Buxus or any topiary, it is worth buying a pair of lightweight, super-sharp secateurs to make the task more pleasurable. And expensive secateurs are a joy to use. They can be taken to pieces and sharpened to keep them in pristine condition for decades, and they usually come with a smart leather holster to keep them in.

      To help in moving some of the larger plants in and out of the conservatory or around the garden prior to planting, a superior type of sack truck is essential. Buy one that is beautifully balanced, easy to use and has nice thick pneumatic tyres for bouncing over uneven ground or gravel.

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      Formally clipped plants such as this Hebe rakaiensis are always a feature of Japanese-style gardens.

       Pruning & chopping

      If lots of herbaceous plants such as Canna and Hedychium are used, after they have turned brown for the winter, instead of cutting them right down to ground level, leave a couple of inches of stem showing above the ground. These will remind you of their whereabouts so that other plants aren’t mistakenly planted in the same place. This might sound drearily obvious, but it’s something I read in a gardening magazine years ago and I found it a useful tip.

      Pruning or clipping plants little and often keeps them in shape and encourages bushy, tight new growth. This is also important with some plants such as Hebe parviflora angustifolia that won’t tolerate hard pruning back into old wood. In fact, such action could kill them. With plants such as Buxus sempervirens that have been grown as spheres, if the growth is allowed to get out of hand, cutting it back into its original curvy shape can be quite tricky.

       Maintenance

      Finally, my last word on the subject of gardening. There is no such thing as a no-maintenance garden. The reason for stating this is because I’m often asked to supply one. Television has a lot to answer for …

Palms

      Palm trees are the ultimate architectural plant: they are shapely, evergreen, and add an exotic touch to any garden. Although they are associated with steamy jungles or baking hot deserts, many are hardy enough for average gardens in much cooler climates.

       The palms that are featured on the following pages have all been selected for their hardiness and availability, as well as for their good looks and ease of cultivation.

      Choosing the correct palms for your particular garden is important. If very cold temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F) are regularly experienced, then Trachycarpus fortunei would be the palm to choose if it is to stay unprotected for the entire winter. Looking out into the garden during a cold snowy winter and seeing a perfectly happy palm tree is a sight that always lifts the spirits.

      Palms are always best planted directly into the ground, rather than grown in containers. In the ground they can grow unchecked to their full stature. The foliage of palm trees planted in the garden always looks greener and healthier than the foliage of those kept in tubs. But if planting in pots is your only option – to stand on the paving around a swimming pool or for a roof terrace, for example – then choose the largest pot possible. Palms kept in small pots not only suffer from having their roots cramped, but the ends of each leaf tip are also much more likely to go brown due to lack of food and uneven amounts of watering. Plants in pots are totally dependent on us for food and water, whereas plants in the ground can usually find their own sources of nourishment and moisture once they are established.

       As long as it is given an adequate supply of water and protection from the wind, a healthy palm should live for many decades.

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      Chamaerops humilis is a slow-growing dwarf palm, perfect for small gardens.

      Although palms are reasonably easy to propagate from seed, this method is not for the impatient gardener. Years can be spent waiting for specimens to mature enough to make a real difference to the view from the house windows. Buying a good-sized palm that is at least eight years old ensures instant appeal and larger palms are also much hardier than small seedlings.

      Chamaerops humilis and Trachycarpus fortunei can grow in either sun or shade, but all of the other palms featured in this chapter need some sunshine to look their best. All palms need adequate moisture but they hate to have their roots permanently soggy.

      Whether you are planting in the ground or in pots, check that the soil contains enough grit, flint, rock or gravel to make sure that excess water can drain away. Virtually all palms, with the exception of Chamaerops humilis and Phoenix canariensis, need to be sited in a sheltered position away from coastal gales and exposed hilltops. Strong winds can leave the leaves looking battered and messy. Large palm foliage, whether fan-shaped or feathered, looks so much better if it is straight and undamaged.

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      Phoenix canariensis is a large, stately palm that is suitable for mild gardens only.

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      Washingtonia filifera adds a glamorous look to any conservatory.

      Palms appreciate a good feed in late spring, when they are actively growing. Sprinkling a few handfuls of a blood, fish and bone mixture on the surface of the soil around each trunk is usually sufficient. Palms rarely need any means of staking and support; each trunk is usually sturdy enough to take care of itself.

      When the lower leaves become brown and scruffy, usually because of age, some maintenance is required. The leaf tips are the first part to look untidy, but this can be remedied by lightly trimming them off with a sharp pair of scissors or secateurs (see photograph, top right). This process can be repeated several times as the leaf ages, until so much of the leaf has been removed that more drastic surgery becomes necessary. Once this stage has been reached, the removal of the entire leaf right down to its base becomes desirable. Using a very sharp pair of secateurs, or a saw if the leaf base is especially thick, cut as close to the trunk of the tree as possible, leaving a nice tidy cut. This cut piece will be visible for years, so care should be taken to make it as pleasing to the eye as possible. As the palm matures, and more leaves are removed, these cut leaf bases become numerous along