From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.. Katharine Lee Bates

was still early, and we strolled over to the tranquil church beside the Rotha. Under the benediction of that grey, embattled tower, in the green churchyard with

      "Ridge rising gently by the side of ridge,

      A heaving surface,"

      sleep Wordsworth, his sister Dorothy, and their kindred, while the names of Hartley Coleridge and Arthur Hugh Clough may be read on stones close by. We brought the poets white heather and heart's ease for our humble share in the rush-bearing.

      Grasmere church, with its strange row of rounded arches down the middle of the nave and its curiously raftered roof, still wears the features portrayed in The Excursion:

      "Not raised in nice proportions was the pile,

      But large and massy; for duration built;

      With pillars crowded, and the roof upheld

      By naked rafters intricately crossed,

      Like leafless underboughs, in some thick wood,

      All withered by the depths of shade above.

      Admonitory texts inscribed the walls,

      Each in its ornamental scroll enclosed,

      Each also crowned with wingèd heads – a pair

      Of rudely painted Cherubim. The floor

      Of nave and aisle, in unpretending guise,

      Was occupied by oaken benches ranged

      In seemly rows; the chancel only showed

      Some vain distinctions, marks of earthly state,

      By immemorial privilege allowed."

      There were a number of people in the church, but the reverent hush was almost unbroken. Strangers in the green churchyard were moving softly about, reading the inscriptions on stones and brasses, or waiting in the pews, some in the attitude of devotion. In the south aisle leaned against the wall the banner of St. Oswald, a crimson-bordered standard, with the figure of the saint in white and crimson, worked on a golden ground. A short, stout personage, with grey chin-whiskers and a pompous air, presumably the sexton, came in a little after three with a great armful of fresh rushes, and commenced to strew the floor. Soon afterwards the children, with their bearings, had taken their positions, ranged in a long row on the broad churchyard wall, fronting the street, which by this time was crowded with spectators, for the Grasmere rush-bearing is the most noted among the few survivals of what was once, in the northern counties of England, a very general observance. There is an excellent account of it, by an eyewitness, as early as 1789. James Clarke, in his Survey of the Lakes, wrote:

      "I happened once to be at Grasmere, at what they call a Rushbearing… About the latter end of September a number of young women and girls (generally the whole parish) go together to the tops of the hills to gather rushes. These they carry to the church, headed by one of the smartest girls in the company. She who leads the procession is styled the Queen, and carries in her hand a huge garland, and the rest usually have nosegays. The Queen then goes and places her garland upon the pulpit, where it remains till after the next Sunday. The rest then strew their rushes upon the bottom of the pews, and at the church door they are met by a fiddler, who plays before them to the public house, where the evening is spent in all kinds of rustic merriment."

      Still more interesting is the record, in Hone's Year Book, by "A Pedestrian." On July 21, 1827, the walking tour of this witness brought him to Grasmere.

      "The church door was open, and I discovered that the villagers were strewing the floors with fresh rushes… During the whole of this day I observed the children busily employed in preparing garlands of such wild flowers as the beautiful valley produces, for the evening procession, which commenced at nine, in the following order: The children, chiefly girls, holding their garlands, paraded through the village, preceded by the Union band. They then entered the church, when the three largest garlands were placed on the altar, and the remaining ones in various parts of the place. In the procession I observed the 'Opium Eater,' Mr. Barber, an opulent gentleman residing in the neighbourhood, Mr. and Mrs. Wordsworth, Miss Wordsworth and Miss Dora Wordsworth. Wordsworth is the chief supporter of these rustic ceremonies. The procession over, the party adjourned to the ballroom, a hayloft at my worthy friend Mr. Bell's (now the Red Lion), where the country lads and lasses tripped it merrily and heavily. They called the amusement dancing. I called it thumping; for he who made the most noise seemed to be esteemed the best dancer; and on the present occasion I think Mr. Pooley, the schoolmaster, bore away the palm. Billy Dawson, the fiddler, boasted to me of having been the officiating minstrel at this ceremony for the last six and forty years… The dance was kept up to a quarter of twelve, when a livery servant entered and delivered the following verbal message to Billy: 'Master's respects, and will thank you to lend him the fiddle-stick.' Billy took the hint, the Sabbath was at hand, and the pastor of the parish (Sir Richard le Fleming) had adopted this gentle mode of apprising the assembled revellers that they ought to cease their revelry. The servant departed with the fiddle-stick, the chandelier was removed, and when the village clock struck twelve not an individual was to be seen out of doors in the village."

      Since then many notices of the Grasmere rush-bearings have been printed, the most illuminating being that of the Rev. Canon Rawnsley, 1890, now included in one of his several collections of Lake Country sketches. He calls attention to the presence, among the bearings, of designs that suggest a Miracle Play connection, as Moses in the bulrushes, the serpent on a pole, and the harps of David and Miriam, – emblems which were all in glowing evidence this past summer. A merry and sympathetic account is given in a ballad of 1864, ascribed to Mr. Edward Button, formerly the Grasmere schoolmaster:

      "In Grasmere's hill-girt valley,

      'Tis pleasant to recall

      The children of the dalesmen hold

      A pretty festival.

      "The children of the valley

      To this day faithful keep

      The custom of their hardy sires

      Who in the churchyard sleep.

      "For when hot summer's waning,

      They to the lake repair

      To pull the reeds and lilies white

      That grow in plenty there.

      "With these, and ferns and mosses,

      And flowers of varied dye,

      They hasten home, and all day long

      Their busy fingers ply.

      "Then in the quiet evening,

      Ere dew begins to fall,

      They range their floral trophies on

      The churchyard's low-topped wall.

      "There crosses without number,

      Of every shape and size,

      And wreaths, triangles, crowns, and shields

      Appear in flowery guise.

      "And verses, too, and mottoes,

      Words ta'en from Holy Writ,

      And some designs which mock the pen,

      We'll call them nondescript.

      "But all are glad and happy

      Who in the pageant share,

      And the urchins with the nondescripts

      Are proud as any there.

      "And proudly struts each youngster,

      When, devices gay in hand,

      They round about the village march

      To the music of the band.

      "Like to a string of rainbows

      Appears that cortege bright,

      Winding 'mong the crooked lanes

      In the golden