Cathedral Window Quilts. Lynne Edwards

few stitches I dig a little deeper to fix the curved edge on to the background layers to make it more secure and less vulnerable to wear and tear.

      Fig 29

      6 Since all raw edges of the window fabric need to be covered, stop stitching about ³⁄₈in (9mm) from the corner and bring both bias edges over the window. Some of the corners can be quite bulky and resist being pulled over the window fabric. I use the side of a fine pair of scissors or the edge of a hera (a Japanese marking tool) or even the blunt edge of an old butter knife to press a central groove in the layers to encourage the rolled edges to meet in a balanced way when pulled over the window. Don’t be gentle with this – place the piece of work flat on a work surface and push very hard with the side of the scissors or hera to flatten the fibres in the layers of fabric along the centre groove.

      7 When you are happy with the look of the rolled edges at the corner, stitch a bar stitch a good ¹⁄₄in (6mm) from the corner (Fig 30). Stitch straight across both rolled edges from side to side, not through any of the underlying layers. Often quilters stitch too near the corner before making the bar stitch, which risks the window fabric fraying out. I think ¹⁄₄in (6mm) is the safest distance from the corner to keep the window fabric in place and protect its raw edges. Pull the stitch firmly and repeat it, this time bringing the needle up into the next rolled edge ready to begin stitching this side of the window in place.

      Fig 30

      8 Stitch all four sides of the rolled edges around the window, treating each corner in the way just described. When the final corner is reached, the original stitching began ¹⁄₂in (1.3cm) from the corner, so there is room to make the final double bar stitch ¹⁄₄in (6mm) from the corner to match the others.

      9 Bring the needle to the back of the work in the joining seam between the two blocks. Make a couple of tiny stitches into the back layer of fabric only and run the needle into this layer for 1in (2.5cm) before cutting off the thread.

      10 Turn the work over to the right side. Of course it won’t be perfect – a first attempt never is, and of course it takes so long at this stage to do just one window. Remember though that anything learned for the first time takes about four times as long as when you are comfortable with the technique. You may see poor corners and flawed stitches, but no one else will.

      ‘I defy you not to pat the window fondly and give a sigh of contentment at the way the window fabric is framed so nicely by the curved edges. I shall now say what most quilters say when anyone admires their work – “Don’t look too closely…”.’

Summer Skies Pincushion

      The elegant curves of Cathedral Window are shown to great effect in this pretty pincushion – the perfect practice piece! The summery fabrics provide a good contrast between the blues and yellows and reveal the ‘window’ effect beautifully. The picture opposite shows other colourways.

      Pincushion finished size: 3³⁄₄in × 3³⁄₄in (9.5cm × 9.5cm).

      ‘If you turn your first attempt into a pincushion and give it to a non-quilter they will be thrilled, you will have got rid of your beginner piece and everyone is happy.’

      Construction

      1 Make the Cathedral Window unit as described previously on pages 18–23. Bring the two shorter sides of the unit (marked A and B in Fig 31) round to meet each other with the right side facing outwards. If you try to do it with right side facing inwards, it is very difficult to turn the whole thing right side out again after stitching. Stitch the two shorter sides A and B together, slipstitching as when the two folded squares were originally joined. This will make a tube rather like a napkin ring which is just about big enough for you to get your hand inside (Fig 32).

      Fig 31

      Fig 32

      2 Cut a second square of window fabric 2³⁄₈in × 2³⁄₈in (6cm × 6cm) to match the one already stitched in place. This can be the same fabric or a different one similar in tone.

      3 Turn the fabric tube round to show the seam that you have just stitched. Place the square of window fabric over this seam on point, positioning it as you did the first window square, with ¹⁄₈in (3mm) of the background fabric showing on all sides (Fig 33). To stitch the window into place follow steps 3–9 from Adding the Windows on page 22.

      Fig 33

      4 Flatten the ring as shown in Fig 32, matching the joining seams. Stitch together one side of the pincushion, either with ladder stitch or by over-sewing as before. Stitch from the centre outwards to one corner, then start again from the centre and stitch to the other corner.

      5 Stuff the pincushion very firmly, especially in the corners, with scraps of wadding or other filling. Finally, pin and stitch the edges of the open end together, again working from the centre outwards. This allows extra stuffing to be added at the sharp corners at the last minute before stitching to keep them firm.