Fly Fishing the Madison River. Craig Mathews

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      Madison River (Montana)

       Location: Southwest Montana where Idaho, Montana and Wyoming come together at the west entrance to Yellowstone National Park at the Town of West Yellowstone, Montana. It is 5 hours from Salt Lake City, 2 hours from Idaho Falls, and 3 hours from Billings, Montana.

      An old friend and veteran Madison River angler told me that one cannot own a river except in one’s heart. He knew the river and it was in his heart, he loved the Madison, and the same goes for me. I fish it over one hundred days a year.

      Anglers try to fish it as they would their home rivers, and never get to experience the Madison’s best. The three sections of the river are quite different. To succeed, a fly fisher has to be adaptable.

      Here are two helpful hints:

      Pick one section of the river and get to know it.

      Bring a reasonable expectation. While the river holds many fish 20 inches and larger, the average is 15 inches, and a typical day for an experienced angler would mean anywhere from 10 to 20 fish between 12 and 18 inches.

      The Madison River is made up of three tailwaters. The upper section begins below Hebgen Dam, 20 miles northwest of West Yellowstone, Montana. The middle tailwater begins 28 miles northwest of West Yellowstone, downstream of Earthquake Lake. The lower tailwater section starts 5 miles downstream of Ennis, below the Ennis Dam on Meadow Lake, 70 miles northwest of West Yellowstone and 55 miles southwest of Bozeman, Montana. There is commercial air service to both West Yellowstone and Bozeman airports.

       Section 1: Hebgen Dam to Earthquake Lake

      The uppermost Madison River tailwater begins downstream of Hebgen Dam at the bottom end of Hebgen Lake. Anglers reach this by driving north out of West Yellowstone 8 miles on Highway 191, then turning left onto Highway 287 northwest along the shoreline of Hebgen Lake, 13 miles to the Hebgen Dam. The water here is open to the public, as most of it is U.S. Forest Service property. This tailwater was created in 1905 when the dam was built for a water-storage reservoir. Flows from the dam are stable for most of the year, the only exception being during spring runoff when the snowmelt brings the lake to full pond and surplus water is released above normal flows. Once the lake is full, water releases from the dam might be raised, but only for a short

      time, rarely affecting the fishing for more than a week or two in late June.

      This is the shortest tailwater section of the three. After flowing 1½ miles, the tailwater ends in Earthquake Lake. The river here is open all year long. This section is characterized by its huge boulders and heavy runs, with deep, rough-and-tumble water that holds some of the largest fish in the river. Just downstream of the dam, a dirt road comes into the highway from the left. Turning onto this road, you will parallel the river for about a mile and dead end in a parking area at the lake. There are several boulders, side channels, pockets, and runs that hold rainbow and brown trout, as well as native mountain whitefish. The trout here—and on all sections of the river—are wild, not planted.

      The water is clear all year for the first ½ mile until Cabin Creek enters the Madison and spills its late-June runoff (with turbid snowmelt) into the mix for a week or two until the 4th of July.

      Winter fishing on the Madison above Earthquake Lake. John Juracek

      From late January to mid-June, the river is packed with pre-spawning and spawning rainbows, as well as a few huge brown trout that run up from Earthquake Lake to devour the rainbows’ spawn. Nymphing is usually the most consistent producer of rainbows that average 16 inches, but larger stonefly nymphs and streamer patterns can bring larger rainbows and browns, some up to 14 pounds. Be prepared for both midge and early- and late-season Baetis mayfly emergences that can bring trout to the surface from January to June and again from September to November.

      The Madison River below Hebgen Dam. John Juracek

      If snowmelt comes at the “normal” time, after mid-June, this section of the river offers up some of the most predictable Blue-winged Olive emergences of the early season. The fishing is best on the lower river, just above Earthquake Lake, where trout can take the #20 to #22 emerging Baetis duns easier than in the rough-and-tumble water upstream. In early July, big Green Drakes as well as both Golden and Giant Stoneflies hatch. While these emergences happen over a few days, it is tough to plan a trip to fish them. If you are here, it is worth checking, as they always bring big trout to the surface.

      Around July 4, the river clears of any snowmelt below its junction with Cabin Creek, and evening caddis begin to hatch. From then until October, several caddis species come off and bring good rises most evenings.

      Midsummer brings terrestrials like ants, beetles, bees, and grasshoppers, along with spruce moths. Fishing imitations of these insects can be epic. From July through September, expect great fishing during the heat of the day with terrestrial patterns.

      Anglers are advised to always carry bear spray in this area. Grizzly as well as black bears are often seen along the river, as are cow and calf moose. Stay clear of any cow moose with a calf. Be aware of all wild animals when fishing this section of the river.

       Section 2: Earthquake Lake to Ennis Lake