The GR20 Corsica. Paddy Dillon

refuges along the way. Those trekking the GR20 early or later in the season could have difficulty obtaining forecasts. Either carry a small radio, or if a mobile signal is available, tel [phone], or if internet is available, check www.meteofrance.com.

Path conditions

      In many places the GR20 is a narrow, stony, rocky mountain trail. Trekkers usually move in single file and give way to those coming in the opposite direction. However, some parts are well-trodden and well-marked, with multiple trodden paths. The standard form of waymarking quickly becomes familiar. One red and one white stripe of paint, parallel to each other, are daubed at intervals on rocks, trees, boulders and other immovable objects. There are a few signposts, generally at the refuges, or at prominent intersections with other routes. Painted markers are slowly being replaced by small plaques fixed to rocks, posts, trees and buildings.

      There are alternative routes and link routes from the GR20, and these are usually marked with yellow stripes of paint at intervals. The GR20 occasionally intersects with other long-distance routes crossing Corsica from coast to coast, and these are marked with orange stripes. Anyone walking for more than a few minutes without any sign of waymarking has probably gone off course, because the markers are usually abundant.

      If the route in this guidebook is at variance with the waymarking, then it may well be that the route has been changed. This happens occasionally and it is best to follow the new markers, but if possible, ask someone else coming in the opposite direction what the extent of re-routing is.

      Snow cover can linger well into the summer, but the amount of snow and the length of time it lies depend on many factors. Apart from the obvious risks of snow and ice being slippery underfoot, there is also the problem of painted waymark flashes being buried, so that trekkers find themselves unsure about the intricacies of route-finding in complex terrain. If there is too much snow cover, an ice axe and crampons become necessary. If using crampons, bear in mind that it will be necessary to put them on and off several times where the route crosses rocky areas bearing patches of snow and ice. Microspikes, while not as good as crampons, are better than nothing.

      The standard red and white flashes of paint marking the GR20 are being replaced by plaques

      LATEST NEWS

       Check randoblogpnrc.blogspot.co.uk before departure to see if there are any problems with any part of the GR20. Early in the season, it will mention any places where snow and ice linger. Late in the season, it will say when the refuges are unstaffed.

       Check corsicaforhikers.com/forum to gather the latest news and opinions as they are reported by other trekkers, or use the forum to ask questions about the GR20.

       Guide includes a major change, following the closure of the Cirque de la Solitude in 2015. A variant route over the shoulder of Monte Cinto was fully marked in 2015. In 2016 it was confirmed as the main (and only) course of the GR20.

Mountain rescue

      Every year there is at least one casualty along the course of the GR20 and a number of accidents. On the whole, these incidents don’t happen where you might expect them, but seem to be the result of a moment of carelessness or lack of concentration. Watch where you are putting your feet when you are trekking, as the ground is often rough and rocky or covered in stones and boulders. Trekkers scrambling up or down rock slabs and gullies should be careful how they move, and not make a move unless it can be reversed. Take special care if snow and ice lingers into the summer. If there is an unusual amount, an ice axe and crampons may be needed. Avoid getting into dangerous situations, as the terrain is unforgiving.

      In June 2015, a serious accident was caused when heavy rain caused a landslide in the Cirque de la Solitude. Seven trekkers were killed and several injured, resulting in the immediate closure and diversion of the route. An accident on this scale is very rare, and with hindsight it could have been avoided altogether. It reinforces the need to check the weather and avoid dangerous conditions. It has been announced that waymarks and protection will have been removed from the Cirque de la Solitude for the 2016 season, and the route now goes over the shoulder of Monte Cinto, described in Stage 4.

      Any trekker suffering a serious fall or injury will have to be rescued. The international distress signal is given on the Mountain Safety page at the front of this guide. The mountain rescue service is generally free, but medical intervention can be costly. Some trekkers believe that insurance policies offered by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) or Austrian Alpine Club (AAC) are best for routes such as the GR20. It is important, however, to read insurance policies carefully and ask questions if unsure about the level of cover being provided, or if unsure about specific exclusions that render such policies void.

      In 2016 all chains were stripped from the Cirque de la Solitude, now not part of the GR20 route.

      Getting a message out in an emergency is not always easy. Mobile phones simply don’t work along many parts of the GR20. When the refuges are staffed, most of them have radio contact with the outside world, and there are usually little helipads alongside. If it is possible to get a message out via one of the refuges, then help will be quickly forthcoming. Anyone using a VHF radio can call for assistance on the emergency Canal E, on 161.300 MHz.

      Without a mobile phone signal, it might prove necessary to descend to a road and find a telephone, bearing in mind that delays can be crucial. The appropriate telephone numbers are police (gendarmerie) 17, ambulance (samu) 15, fire service (pompiers) 18, or the European emergency number 112. Any of these services can alert the mountain rescue, or PGHM (Peleton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne). The PGHM can be contacted directly at Corte, tel [phone]. However, try not to get into a situation in the first place where rescue is needed.

      For less urgent health matters there is a pharmacy at Calenzana, and beyond that you would have to leave the GR20 and head for one of the larger villages or towns. If you need any regular medication, take plenty with you, or be prepared to leave the route. If a doctor or a trip to a hospital is required, European citizens should present their European Health Insurance Card, which may help to offset the cost of certain treatments.

What to take

      Most trekkers on the GR20 carry far too much equipment. Think very carefully about the gear you plan to carry, and ruthlessly pare it to the bare minimum. The GR20 is a tough, steep and rocky trail that is generally followed in blazing sun, so it is unwise to carry a heavy load, which will sap your energy and slow you down.

      Neither is there any need to carry much food, so long as you don’t mind paying handsomely to buy food that has been carried up to the refuges. There is no need to carry heavy gear when lightweight gear is available. If you book all your overnights in the refuges, you can dispense with almost all other backpacking gear and carry the lightest possible sleeping bag. Nor is there any great need to carry more than one complete change of clothing, since clothes can be washed and dried along the way. Keep your pack light and aim to enjoy the trek!

      ESSENTIALS

       Good footwear – either lightweight boots or shoes, for those absolutely confident about wearing them, or heavier boots if you need them.

       Sock combination – try something like Bridgedales, with a dedicated Coolmax liner sock

       Clothing combination – polyester or polycotton, which is better than all-cotton for comfort, and dries quickly after washing

       Sun protection – those who burn easily should use light-coloured long sleeved/legged clothing and a sun hat

       Sunscreen – the sun can be very strong in the mountains and your skin can be burnt quite easily

       Waterproofs – a lightweight jacket is sufficient; trousers aren’t necessary, but