Stash Buster Quilts. Lynne Edwards

blocks to match the first (Fig 12).

       Fig 11

       Fig 12

      Trim the strips to match each block and finger-press the seams away from the centre (Fig 13).

       Fig 13

      9 Using another strip of fabric from team B, either the same as before or a different fabric from the team (remember, always use each team twice to make an L shape), follow the same procedure, stitching side 4 of each block on to the strip. You now have a complete round of strips surrounding the centre square (Fig 14).

       Fig 14

      Once the block has got this far there is a quick way to see at a glance which side of the block is the next one to be stitched. Look at the block and find the edge that has two seams along it – this is the side to be stitched next (Fig 15).

       Fig 15

      As you stitch check that the strip will be long enough for the next block to be stitched to it. If too short, just substitute another strip from any fabric from the team for the remaining blocks to be stitched on to.

      10 Continue to build up the block, referring to the masking tape square to check that sides 1 and 2 always have team A fabrics against them, while sides 3 and 4 have team B fabrics against them. Remember to use strips from each team twice to make the L shape.

      11 When four rounds of strips have been joined to all four blocks, check with Fig 2 that the design is correct. Press each block from the front, pressing all the seams out from the centre towards the edges of the block.

12 For those of you confident enough to make Log Cabin blocks without the previous detailed instructions, start from here by measuring the completed block – it should be about 14½in × 14½in (36.8cm × 36.8cm) before trimming. Trim each block on all sides to exactly 14in × 14in (35.5cm × 35.5cm).

      13 Now make more blocks in the same arrangement of strips as in Fig 2. Thirty blocks are needed for the Syncopation quilt. Nine blocks are needed for the Off-Beat Batik quilt. Do not worry too much if the final round of strips varies in width because of the trimming – this won't be noticeable once the blocks are cut up and tilted.

      Making the triangular template

      14 On a piece of graph paper draw a horizontal line 11in (27.9cm) long. At the left end draw a vertical line upwards 3½in (8.9cm). Join these two lines from a to b (Fig 16) to complete the triangle.

       Fig 16

      15 Cut out the triangle template carefully. Use masking tape to stick the template to the underside of a rotary ruler with right side upwards and the sloping edge a-b level with one long edge of the ruler (Fig 17)

       Fig 17

      Cutting the blocks

      16 Lay a Log Cabin block right side up on a cutting mat. Place the ruler over the block so that the template triangle is positioned exactly over one corner of the block. Cut along the edge of the ruler through the fabric block (Fig 18).

       Fig 18

      17 Repeat this on the opposite corner of the block. Finally, repeat this cut on the remaining two corners (Fig 19).

       Fig 19

      Only the first pair of opposite triangles of fabric cut from the block are completely triangular in shape. The other two have the last Vain (1.2cm) of the sharp point (b) missing and a small piece from the other corner (a) – see Fig 20.

       Fig 20

      18 Exchange corner 1 with its opposite corner 2 and exchange corner 3 with corner 4 (Fig 21).

       Fig 21

      19 Pin and stitch corner 1 to the centre block with a ¼in (6mm) seam offset along the seamline at the wide-angled end and with an overhang at the sharp-angled end (Fig 22).

       Fig 22