Eat – The Little Book of Fast Food. Nigel Slater

bowl can be as simple or as elaborate as we wish. A crude earthenware container, a delicate porcelain receptacle, a workaday white soup dish, a piece of ironmonger’s enamel, something hand thrown, a family heirloom or something disposable. Whatever we use, it fulfils the same purpose. To hold our food and enable us, should we wish, to cradle it. Comfort food at its most satisfying.

       A few favourites

       A simple miso broth for a fragile moment

      Bring a litre of chicken or vegetable stock or dashi almost to the boil (powdered dashi works well here). Stir in 3 tablespoons of light miso paste, a tablespoon of sesame oil and a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce. Simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, then turn off the heat. To this you can add thinly sliced cabbage or kale, plus paper-fine slices of radish, carrot or fried mushrooms. I like to put coriander in mine, too.

      Yellow split peas, spices and tomato

      A rich, thick dhal in just over half an hour. Boil 250g yellow split peas in a litre of water for about 35 minutes till almost soft, then drain. In a saucepan, lightly brown a sliced onion in a little oil then add 2 teaspoons of cumin seeds, about 25g ginger, peeled and shredded into fine matchsticks, and 2 cloves of crushed garlic. Stir in a teaspoon of ground turmeric and a pinch of dried chilli flakes, then add a can of chopped tomatoes. Stir in the cooked split peas. Keep cooking for 10–15 minutes, adding vegetable stock or boiling water if necessary, and crushing some of the peas as you stir (or use a vegetable masher). Finish with a teaspoon of garam masala, salt and some fresh coriander. Eat with warm Indian bread or rice. For 4.

      A light, fresh, sweet soup for summer

      Separate the leaves of a large soft lettuce. Melt a thick slice of butter in a deep pan, add a large finely chopped shallot and let it soften. Add the lettuce, roughly torn, then stir in 400g peas. Simmer for 10 minutes, then blitz in a blender or food processor in small batches.

      The deep savour of beef and noodle broth

      Mix together a tablespoon of oyster sauce, a tablespoon of fish sauce, a teaspoon of sesame oil and 2 teaspoons of honey. Brush this over a piece of sirloin steak and grill or cook in a shallow pan, leaving the outside with a dark crust, the inside generously pink. Bring a litre of beef stock to the boil. Pour boiling water over 100g rice noodles and let them hydrate, then drain and place in serving bowls. Slice the steak thickly and place on top of the noodles, scatter with sliced spring onions, chopped coriander, a handful of watercress with its stalks and a little finely chopped red chilli. Ladle over the broth. Season with lime juice. For 2.

      Carrot, Black Beans and Coriander

      carrots, butter, black beans, coriander leaves, mustard seeds, onion, chilli flakes

      Boil 600g carrots in deep, lightly salted water until tender, then drain, reserving the liquid. Blitz the carrots in a food processor with 20g butter and 150ml of the reserved cooking water.

      Melt 30g butter in a shallow pan, add 2 teaspoons of mustard seeds and toast for a minute or two. Drain two 400g cans of black beans, add to the pan, cover and leave to cook for 5 minutes, till warmed through.

      Peel and finely slice an onion. Melt another 30g butter in a pan, add the sliced onion and fry till golden brown. Scatter in a large pinch of dried chilli flakes and a further teaspoon of mustard seeds. Sizzle briefly.

      Divide the carrot purée between 2 bowls, gently stir in the black beans, scatter over a few coriander leaves, then spoon over the sizzling onion and its butter.

      For 2. Aromatic, satisfying, sweet and faintly hot.

      Split Peas with Aubergine

      yellow split peas, aubergine, onion, cardamom pods, turmeric, cumin seeds, canned tomatoes, coriander leaves

      Soak 100g yellow split peas for an hour, or longer if you have it. Peel and roughly chop an onion, then let it soften in a deep pan over a moderate heat in a little oil. Crack open 10 green cardamom pods, extract their tiny black seeds and lightly grind them in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder. Stir a teaspoon of cumin seeds into the onion, then add the cardamom seeds. When all is golden and fragrant, add 2 teaspoons of ground turmeric. Stir in a 400g can of chopped tomatoes and continue to simmer.

      In a separate pan, boil the yellow split peas in deep unsalted water for about 30 minutes, till soft. Drain and stir into the onion and tomato mixture. Simmer, stirring regularly, till soft, scarlet and slushy then season with salt and pepper. Halve and thinly slice an aubergine, then cook in a shallow pan in several tablespoons of olive oil till soft and golden. Drain and stir into the split peas, adding a handful of coriander leaves. Serve with steamed white rice.

      For 2. Rich and earthy. Glowing colours.

      Green Vegetable Soup

      spring vegetables, white peppercorns, coriander seeds, turmeric, lemongrass, garlic, ginger, chilli, coriander, vegetable stock, coconut milk, fish sauce, lime, soy sauce

      Put a teaspoon of white peppercorns and a teaspoon of coriander seeds in a dry non-stick frying pan and toast lightly for 2 or 3 minutes, then tip into the bowl of a food processor. Add half a teaspoon of sea salt, a teaspoon of ground turmeric, 2 lemongrass stalks, chopped, 2 cloves of garlic, peeled, a 3cm lump of ginger, peeled, 3 hot green chillies, 3 tablespoons of groundnut oil and a handful of coriander stems and roots. Blitz to a coarse paste. You can keep this paste for a few days in the fridge, its surface covered with oil to prevent it drying out.

      In a deep pan, fry 3 lightly heaped tablespoons of the curry paste in a tablespoon of oil for 30 seconds till fragrant, stirring as you go. Stir in 200ml vegetable stock and 250ml coconut milk, a tablespoon of fish sauce, and 2 tablespoons of lime juice.

      Add 450g (combined weight) asparagus tips, broad beans and peas and continue simmering for 5–6 minutes, then shred a couple of handfuls of greens into thick ribbons and add them to the pan.

      Finish the soup with a pinch of sugar, fish sauce, a little soy sauce, more lime juice – whatever floats your boat.

      For 4. Deep flavours that dazzle. Rich but fresh.

      Ham Hock, Herb Sauce

      ham hock, peas, garlic, parsley, chives, basil

      Put a 500–600g ham hock in a deep pan with just enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, skim off the froth that rises to the surface, then turn the heat down so the liquid simmers. Cover with a lid and leave, with the occasional turn,