Best Tent Camping: Maryland. Evan L. Balkan

recreation.gov or 877-444-6777

      FACILITIES: Bathhouse

      PARKING: Only 1 vehicle at individual site; limited overflow parking

      FEE: $25/night

      RESTRICTIONS

      ■ Pets: On a leash

      ■ Quiet Hours: 10 p.m.–6 a.m.

      ■ Visitors: Maximum 5 people or the immediate household/site

      ■ Fires: In fire rings

      ■ Alcohol: Permitted only inside cabins and at shelters with valid permit

      ■ Stay Limit: No more than 7 consecutive days, or 14 days in a year

      ■ Other: Maximum tent size 9x12 feet; checkout noon

      Catoctin Mountain Park has a pedigreed history as a getaway spot—the presidential retreat at Camp David lies on the same property. The area was developed in the 1930s partly as a retreat for the families of federal employees. Although people are still fond of saying that D.C.’s population changes every election year and that no one actually lives there, those of us who grew up in and around D.C. know otherwise. We also know that summer—a time when it feels like the rest of the world is coming into the city—can be brutally hot and humid. Thus, a place like Catoctin, not too far away even in those days before mass transport and reliable, paved roads, is truly a retreat.

      Franklin D. Roosevelt was the first to use Catoctin as a presidential getaway in 1942. He named it Shangri-La. When Roosevelt died, some controversy arose over whether the land would remain in federal hands or revert to Maryland state parkland. A compromise was reached whereby the land north of MD 77 would remain under federal control, while the land south would go back to Maryland. (This southern area is now Cunningham Falls State Park.) The deal became official in 1954; soon after, President Eisenhower renamed the retreat after his grandson.

      Obviously, a visitor to Catoctin Park shouldn’t expect to be able to do any snooping around Camp David. In fact, chances are, you won’t even know where it is in relation to where you’re hiking or camping. (That said, I’ve been camping here when helicopters busily ferried dignitaries to and from the retreat.) The sections of the park that aren’t off-limits contain more than 5,800 acres and more than 25 miles of hiking trails. Adding adjacent Cunningham Falls State Park, there’s no shortage of recreational opportunities.

      Catoctin’s Owens Creek Campground sits near its namesake, the clean and clear Owens Creek. Several hiking trails also come quite close, including the Catoctin Trail, which runs all the way through the park, into Cunningham Falls State Park, and farther south through the Frederick Municipal Forest. Nearer the park headquarters, it’s easy to access trails that take in Chimney Rock, Wolf Rock, Thurmont Vista, and the Blue Ridge Summit Overlook, a fantastic loop through hardwood forests with grand, sweeping views.

      I tend to have a bias toward the last site on any loop because of its minimal through traffic. For Catoctin, this is site 30, which sits virtually by itself at the end of the loop. If access to the bathhouse and water is most important to you, try to snag site 10 or 20. But the sites nearest Owens Creek are the most popular, and justly so—it’s a lovely little tributary, and the sites are very close to the creek. Essentially, the sites to the left of the entrance area—sites 1, 2, 4, 7, 14–16, 18, and 28–30—head toward the creek. Of these, sites 18, 28, and 29 are the best, with 30 a good bet as well because of its additional proximity to hiking trails.

      Outside of the main campground loop, there are also two Adirondack shelters where you can camp; these are 3 miles downhill from the park. These primitive sites are lovely and provide nice space and privacy. These shelters are free, but permits are required (obtainable through the recreation.gov website). Tents must be set up inside the shelters. The shelters can accommodate five people and provide access to a pit toilet. They both sit within 3 miles of parking areas.

      :: Getting There

      From Frederick, take US 15 17 miles north to Thurmont. Take MD 77 West. Go 3 miles and turn right onto Park Central Road.

      GPS COORDINATES N39°39'11.2" W77°27'49.6"

      4

      C&O Canal: Drive-In Sites

      All campsites along the canal have two things in common: the Potomac in front and the towpath behind.

      :: Ratings

      BEAUTY:

      PRIVACY:

      QUIET:

      SPACIOUSNESS:

      SECURITY:

      CLEANLINESS:

      :: Key Information

      ADDRESS: C&O Canal NHP Headquarters, 1850 Dual Highway, Suite 100 Hagerstown, MD 21740-6620

      CONTACT: 301-739-4200; nps.gov/choh

      OPERATED BY: National Park Service

      OPEN: Year-round

      SITES: 5 locations, 71 sites total

      EACH SITE: Picnic table, fire pit

      ASSIGNMENT: First come, first served

      REGISTRATION: Self-registration at each site; pay before occupying site

      FACILITIES: Chemical toilets, grills, water (except McCoys Ferry)

      PARKING: Maximum 2 vehicles/site; park only at designated sites, never on grass. You must have a parking tag if you leave a car overnight at a canal parking lot; to access a registration form, visit: nps.gov/choh

      FEE: $10/night

      RESTRICTIONS

      ■ Pets: On a leash or under control

      ■ Quiet Hours: 10 p.m.–6 a.m.

      ■ Visitors: Maximum 8 people or 2 tents/site

      ■ Fires: In grills or fire rings only

      ■ Alcohol: Not allowed

      ■ Stay Limit: Total of 30 days for the calendar year, only 14 of which can be consecutive or between May 1 and October 1

      The C&O Canal follows the Potomac River for 185 miles from Washington, D.C., to Cumberland, Maryland. It functioned for almost 100 years beginning in 1828, and a multitude of original structures still stand, attesting to its durability and workmanship. It came close to becoming a highway, but through the tireless efforts of Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas in the mid-1950s, it was turned instead into a linear park in 1971. Today, we are the beneficiaries. I recommend checking out canaltrust.org/trust, the website of the C&O Canal Trust, the nonprofit partner of the Historic Trust, which offers loads of wonderful info on sites along the canal.

      The C&O Canal enjoys a reputation as the best-preserved 19th-century canal in America, and restoration projects continue to this day. Potomac floods periodically wash away major portions of the canal, so restoration will probably