Thai Noodles & Snacks. Nongkran Daks

made from wheat flour and egg. Substitute fresh spaghetti or fettucini if you cannot find them. Dried rice vermicelli (mifen or beehoon) are very fine rice threads that must be plunged into hot water to soften before use. Rice stick noodles (also known as "river noodles", kway teow or hofun) are wide, flat rice noodles sold fresh in Asian markets. If not available, use dried rice stick noodles instead. Glass noodles, also known as cellophane or bean thread noodles, are thin, clear strands made from mung bean starch and water. They are sold in dried form and must be soaked in warm water for 15 minutes to soften.

      Palm sugar is made from the distilled juice of various palm fruits and varies in color from golden to dark brown. It has a rich flavor similar to dark brown sugar or maple syrup, which make good substitutes.

      Plum sauce is a sweet sauce made from plums, vinegar, sugar and a dash of chilies. It is sold in jars or cans in the supermarket.

      Preserved salted radish or chai poh is pickled and dried Japanese radish or daikon. Added to dishes for its crunchy texture and salty flavor, it keeps almost indefinitely and is available from Asian markets.

      Star anise is a dried brown seed pod with 8 woody petals, each with a shiny black seed inside, which has the flavor of cinnamon and aniseed. Use whole and remove from the dish before serving.

      Tamarind pulp is the fruit of the tamarind tree seed pod. It is sold dried in packets or jars and generally still has some seeds and pod fibers mixed in with the dried pulp. It is used as a souring agent in many dishes. The dried pulp should be mixed with a small amount of warm water, mashed with the fingers, then strained to obtain tamarind juice, which is then added to sauces or spice mixes.

      Soy sauce is brewed from soybeans and wheat fermented with salt. It is a clear brown liquid with a salty taste and is used as a table condiment and cooking seasoning. Dark soy sauce is denser and less salty, with a malty tang. Sweet black soy sauce is a thick, fragrant sauce used in marinades and sauces. It is not widely available in the West but can be approximated by adding 1 1/2 teaspoon dark brown sugar to 1 tablespoon of normal dark soy sauce. Hoisin sauce also makes a good substitute.

      Tapioca flour is also known as cassava or manioc flour. This starch from the cassava root is used as a thickening agent like cornstarch. Combined with rice flour, it adds a translucent sheen and chewiness to cakes. Available in Asian food markets. Cornstarch may be used as a substitute.

      Thai basil (horapa) tastes rather like Italian sweet basil with a hint of anise and is used in red and green curries. It is available year round.

      Wood ear mushrooms have very little flavor and are added to dishes for their crunchy texture and as a meat substitute. They are sold dried in plastic packets in Asian supermarkets and comes in small, crinkly sheets. Soak them in water before using. Wash well and discard any hard bits that remain after soaking.

      Yellow bean paste is similar to Japanese miso paste and is made from fermented yellow soybeans. It is an important seasoning in Asian dishes and is slightly sweet. "Sweet" and "hot" salted soy beans have added sugar and chili. Bean paste is sold in cans and jars.

      Dips, Sauces and Condiments

      Although rice is a mainstay at the Thai table, rice flour, egg or mung bean noodles are almost as widespread. Thai cooks have taken this Chinese import—the noodle—and created numerous delectable dishes, from stir-fries and salads to soups and delicate snacks. The following dips, pastes, sauces and side dishes are either recipes in their own right or basic components of other recipes featured later in this book.

      Sweet and Hot Plum Sauce (Nam Jim)

      125 ml 1/2 cup) water 200 g (1 cup) sugar

      125 ml 1/2 cup) vinegar

      1 red finger-length chili, finely chopped

      3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

      2 tablespoons plum sauce or Japanese apricot sauce

      1 Combine the water, sugar and vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low. Cook until the mixture begins to thicken, about 40 minutes.

      2 Add the red chili, garlic and apricot sauce. Stir a few times. Remove from the heat and cool before serving.

      3 Serve as a dip for Golden Sacks (Tung Thong) (page 26).

      Cucumber Salad (Ajaad)

      2 tablespoons sugar

      1 teaspoon salt

      90 ml (1/3 cup) warm water

      2 tablespoons vinegar

      3 shallots, thinly sliced

      1 red finger-length chili, sliced diagonally

      1 small cucumber, peeled, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced

      1 Dissolve the sugar and salt in the water. Add the vinegar.

      2 Place the shallots and the chili slices on top of the cucumber in a serving bowl. Pour the sugar water mixture over the top.

      3 Serve as an accompaniment to Thai Pork Sata (page 16) or Fish Cakes (Tod Man Pla—page 27).

      Red Curry Paste (Nam Prik Kang Phet)

      1 tablespoon coriander seeds

      3 dried red chilies, soaked 30 minutes

      1 stalk lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, thinly sliced

      3 thin slices galangal

      3 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped

      7 cloves garlic, peeled

      1 teaspoon kaffir lime rind

      1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste (belachan)

      90 ml (1/3 cup) water, or more as needed

      1 Roast the coriander seeds in a dry frying-pan over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Combine all the ingredients in a blender and process until smooth.

      2 Store unused portions in a tightly closed container. Leftovers keep well in the refrigerator or freezer. This paste is used in the preparation of Peanut Sauce (Nam Sate—page 16) and Fish Cakes (Tod Man Pla—page 27), but it can also be used for any kind of Thai red curry.

      Miang Kham Sauce

      1 small onion, thinly sliced

      1 tablespoon thinly sliced lemongrass (tender inner part of bottom third only)

      1 tablespoon shredded fresh ginger

      1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste (belachan)

      90 g (1/2 cup) shredded coconut

      30 g (1/4 cup) dried prawns

      1 1/2 teaspoons salt

      500 ml (2 cups) plus 125-180 ml (1/2 - 3/4 cups) water

      200 g (1 cup) palm sugar

      Crushed roasted peanuts, to garnish

      1 Roast the onions, lemongrass, ginger and shrimp paste at 120°C (250°F) until golden, about 15 minutes. Roast the coconut at 180°C (350°F) until