Faith in Flux. Devaka Premawardhana

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      Faith in Flux

      CONTEMPORARY ETHNOGRAPHY

      Kirin Narayan and Alma Gottlieb, Series Editors

      A complete list of books in the series is available from the publisher.

      FAITH IN FLUX

      Pentecostalism and Mobility in Rural Mozambique

      Devaka Premawardhana

      UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA PRESS

      PHILADELPHIA

      Copyright © 2018 University of Pennsylvania Press

      All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations used for purposes of review or scholarly citation, none of this book may be reproduced in any form by any means without written permission from the publisher.

      Published by

      University of Pennsylvania Press

      Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19104-4112

       www.upenn.edu/pennpress

      Printed in the United States of America

      on acid-free paper

      1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

       Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

      Names: Premawardhana, Devaka, author.

      Title: Faith in flux : Pentecostalism and mobility in rural Mozambique / Devaka Premawardhana.

      Other titles: Contemporary ethnography.

      Description: 1st edition. | Philadelphia : University of Pennsylvania Press, [2018] | Series: Contemporary ethnography | Includes bibliographical references and index.

      Identifiers: LCCN 2017047730 | ISBN 978-0-8122-4998-9 (hardcover : alk. paper)

      Subjects: LCSH: Pentecostalism—Mozambique. | Social mobility—Mozambique. | Residential mobility—Mozambique. | Makhuwa (African people)—Mozambique. | Mozambique—Religious life and customs. | Conversion. | Pentecostal churches—Mozambique.

      Classification: LCC BR1644.5.M85 P74 2018 | DDC 276.79/083—dc23

      LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017047730

       For Kalinka

      The sedentary life is the very sin against the Holy Spirit.

      —Friedrich Nietzsche, Twilight of the Idols

      CONTENTS

       Introduction

       PART I. OTHAMA—TO MOVE

       Chapter 1. A Fugitive People

       Chapter 2. Between the River and the Road

       PART II. OHIYA NI OVOLOWA—TO LEAVE AND TO ENTER

       Chapter 3. Border Crossings

       Chapter 4. Two Feet In, Two Feet Out

       PART III. OKHALANO—TO BE WITH

       Chapter 5. A Religion of Her Own?

       Chapter 6. Moved by the Spirit

       Conclusion

       Notes

       Works Cited

       Index

       Acknowledgments

      Figure 1. Map of Mozambican field site.

      Introduction

      I clapped twice to announce my presence, then ducked into the mud-plaster longhouse that Mutúali built soon after the rains had ceased. It was dark inside, except for the day’s last sunrays passing through the rear. It was empty except for Mutúali and Leonardo standing toward the front. On a bamboo platform before them sat what was, as late as 2012, only the second television set to appear in Kaveya village. An empty box to the side revealed it to be a fourteen-inch Sharp Multisystem. To repay the loan needed for its purchase, Mutúali would be operating his longhouse essentially as a village cinema, charging visitors an entrance fee of three meticais (at the time, around five U.S. cents) per night. Of course, not always would he be able to show videos and take in revenue. “Depends on the gasoline,” he said. The fee would also go toward this: the cost of diesel for his electric generator, and the labor of biking, jerry cans in tow, to the service station forty kilometers away.

      For this inaugural occasion Mutúali invited his fellow worshippers at Kaveya’s Pentecostal church to join him early. I arrived with Jemusse, a church member with whose family my wife and I were living that year. We greeted Mutúali and Leonardo, then sat down in the front row—a broad log on the dirt floor. Silently and admiringly we watched our friends maneuver through a tangle of wires and devices.

      Other church members trickled in. After Deacon Nório arrived, technical preparations ceased. Or, rather, they took a new form: we got to our feet and prayed. Jemusse started by recalling Mutúali’s previous failed projects—a dilapidated sewing machine, a malfunctioning motorbike—yet affirming that God was behind those opportunities just as God is now behind this one. “Bless us, Lord, so that all the machines work well,” he said. We each then took to shouting our own prayers. Our eyes were shut and our voices loud. A few arms were raised, others punched the air. After some minutes, Deacon Nório raised his voice above the rest: “We thank you, God, for the miracles you are doing in this home. Here on earth no one can do these miracles. Thank you, Lord! But whoever wants to spoil this place, stay away. Evil spirits, you cannot come near! Let Jesus Christ reign. I hand over all to you, my God.” We all yelled in unison, “Amen!”

      I reclaimed my seat, and Mutúali and Leonardo resumed their setup. Out of some foam casing they removed a DVD player. They connected it to an extension cord that snaked out the side entrance. There the generator sat, whirring hesitantly, then more persistently. It was soon emitting the pungent odor of burning fuel.

      Meanwhile the rows behind me were filling silently, everyone seemingly awed by the novelty before them. One man finally broke the silence with a joke, telling us to look and see the television already on. He was referring to what the screen reflected beyond the rear passageway: the open sky and a mango tree, under which