Foodscapes, Foodfields, and Identities in the YucatÁn. Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz

      

       CEDLA Latin America Studies (CLAS)

      General Editor

      Michiel Baud, CEDLA

       Series Editorial Board

      Anthony Bebbington, Clark University

      Edward F. Fischer, Vanderbilt University

      Anthony L. Hall, London School of Economics and Political Science

      Barbara Hogenboom, CEDLA

      Barbara Potthast, University of Cologne

      Rachel Sieder, University of London

      Eduardo Silva, Tulane University

      Patricio Silva, Leiden University

       CEDLA

      Centro de Estudios y Documentación Latinoamericanos

      Centro de Estudos e Documentação Latino-Americanos

      Centre for Latin American Research and Documentation

      CEDLA conducts social science and history research, offers university courses, and has a specialized library for the study of the region. The Centre also publishes monographs and a journal on Latin America.

      Keizersgracht 395-397

      1016 EK Amsterdam

      The Netherlands/Países Bajos

       http://www.cedla.uva.nl

      For information on previous volumes published in this series, please contact CEDLA at the above address.

       Volume 98

       Latin America Facing China: South-South Relations beyond the

       Washington Consensus

      Edited by Alex E. Fernández Jilberto and Barbara Hogenboom

       Volume 99

       Foodscapes, Foodfields, and Identities in Yucatán

      Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz

       FOODSCAPES, FOODFIELDS,AND IDENTITIESIN YUCATÁN

      Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz

      Published in 2012 by

       Berghahn Books

       www.berghahnbooks.com

      © 2012 Steffan Igor Ayora-DiazFirst ebook edition published in 2012 All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of short passages for the purposes of criticism and review, no part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system now known or to be invented, without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Ayora-Diaz, Steffan Igor. Foodscapes, foodfields, and identities in Yucat / Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-85745-220-7 (hardback : alk. paper) ISBN 978-0-85745-334-1 (ebook) 1. Food habits GT2853.M6A96 2011 394.125097265 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-85745-220-7 hardbackISBN 978-0-85745-334-1 ebook

       Contents

       List of Illustrations

       Acknowledgments

       Introduction: Food and the Post-colonial Politics of Identity

       Chapter 1

       The Story of Two Peoples: Mexican and Yucatecan Peoplehood

       Chapter 2

       Mérida and the Contemporary Foodscape

       Chapter 3

       The Yucatecan Culinary Field and the Naturalization of Taste

       Chapter 4

       Cookbooks and the Gastronomic Field: From Minor to Major Codes (and Back)

       Chapter 5

       The Gastronomic Field: Restaurants and the Institutionalization of Yucatecan Gastronomy

       Conclusion: Food and Identities in Post-national Times

       Notes

       Glossary of Recipes

       Cookbook References

       References

       Index

       Illustrations

       FIGURES

       I.1 Cod Biscayne-style, final stages of cooking

       1.1 Palace Cantón at the Paseo Montejo

       1.2 Monument to Jacinto Canek, Canek Avenue, Mérida

       2.1 Supermarket in Mérida

       2.2 Street vendor of cochinita pibil and baked piglet, Mérida

       3.1 Family Christmas Eve supper table set in buffet style

       5.1 Restaurant patio in downtown Mérida

       5.2 The author facing panuchos and salbutes in a downtown restaurant

       TABLES

       2.1 The urban foodscape—eating out for breakfast

       2.2 The urban foodscape—eating out for almuerzo

       2.3 The urban foodscape—eating out for supper

       4.1 Proportion of Yucatecan recipes in relation to the total of recipes included