Stitch with Love. Mandy Shaw

      Use to trace the motif onto tracing paper. Place the tracing paper onto your fabric, right sides facing and iron (without steam). This transferral method is useful for fabrics that you cannot see through such as thicker linens and wools, but the motif will be reversed. The transferred line is permanent and cannot be erased so you will need to hide it with your embroidery stitches, and you must sharpen the pencil frequently to avoid a thick drawn line. As this pencil is only available in red, it will not work on the darker red fabrics used for some of the projects in this book.

      Pencil

      This is my preferred method for tracing the design when I can see through the fabric. If you use either pencils sharpened to a point or good quality propelling pencils, the mark will be so fine that it will not require erasing. There is a propelling pencil available that has changeable coloured leads, which is a good option for darker fabrics.

      Water colour pencil

      This is another great option for working on different coloured fabrics as the pencils are available in a variety of colours; be sure to keep the leads well sharpened to maintain a fine line. The marks will wash out when rubbed with a damp cotton bud.

      Dressmaker’s pencil

      These are readily available in most fabric shops, and come in pink, blue and white for marking both light and dark fabrics. It is not possible to get a fine point on the pencil, but as the marked line can be brushed off or washed out, this is not such a problem.

      Pens

      Fade away pens Beware as marks made with these may fade before you have finished stitching. Do not iron the marked lines or expose them to heat as they may become permanent or leave an unsightly stain.

      Washable pens Lines marked with these pens will wash out or can be erased with a damp cotton bud but test on your fabric first. I once had a nasty experience where years later a yellow stain could be seen on my embroidery where the marked line had been. Permanent pen It is very important for you to be able to see the marked lines clearly. This pen’s fine tip makes a clear strong line especially on smaller projects. It is, however, very permanent.

      Dressmaker’s carbon paper

      This is available in white, blue, pink and yellow, so should mark all fabric colours. Place the paper on the fabric, right sides together. Place the tracing or template on top and draw around the design with a ball point pen. Work on a hard flat surface and press very firmly (it may be a good idea to tape down the fabric so that it doesn’t move). The transferred line can sometimes be quite thick and it doesn’t always come out successfully.

      A fade away pen works well on light fabrics.

      White dressmaker’s carbon paper stands out clearly on darker fabrics.

      Card template

      A card template is a good method to choose when your fabric is too dark to see through or you have an easy repeat shape to transfer. I used it for the hearts on the Heart Blanket and the seed packets on the Gardener’s Tidy. Trace the motif onto paper, stick it onto lightweight card and carefully cut out. Place the template on the fabric as required and trace around the outside with a fine pencil.

      As an alternative to a light box tape the design to the window, tape your fabric on top and trace off.

      Light box

      A great aid for tracing motifs onto lighter fabrics, a light box is both reasonably priced and readily available; alternatively, you can make one from a strong plastic or heavy cardboard box. Fix a light fitting inside and clip a piece of perspex on top.

      All seams are sewn with a 6mm (¹⁄₄in) seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

      Making the Projects

      I have designed over 20 easy-to-make projects for you to embellish with stitching. For more detailed instructions on using a sewing machine, working with fusible webbing, edging with ric-rac braid, custom-made bias binding, and making covered buttons, refer to the Techniques section at the end of the book.

      Sewing by hand or machine

      I have used a sewing machine to make all of the projects in this book, although they can be made entirely by hand if you so choose. But if you have access to a sewing machine, do use it. It is so much faster, leaving more time for the stitching which is the fun bit. Some helpful tips on using a sewing machine are included in the Techniques section. Whether you choose to stitch your chosen projects by hand or machine, there are a couple of hand finishing stitches you will need.

      Ladder stitch

      For closing a seam on a stuffed item or sewing two folded edges together. The stitches look like a ladder until they are pulled tight to close the seam. Knot the end of the thread and start from inside the opening to hide the knot. Take straight stitches into the folded fabric, stitching into each edge in turn. After a few stitches pull the thread taut to draw up the stitches and close the gap.

      Slip stitch

      Also used to close gaps in seams. When worked neatly, it is almost invisible. Work from right to left, picking up a tiny piece of the fabric from one seam edge. Insert the needle into the other seam fold and move the needle along 3mm (¹⁄₈in). Push the needle out into the seam edge and repeat.

      Working the Stitches

      I have selected 11 simple decorative hand stitches for my designs. If you have not embroidered since your school days, take the time to refresh your memory of how these are worked. The stitches required for each project are listed alongside the ‘you will need’ listing. Practise them first on a linen scrap following the instructions for right- or left-handed stitchers as appropriate.

      Using an embroidery hoop

      It is a matter of personal preference as to whether or not you use an embroidery hoop to keep your fabric taut while stitching. I prefer not to as I find it gets in my way and yet I still produce lovely work with no lumps or bumps. Embroidery hoops come in two parts, a smaller hoop and a slightly larger one with a tension screw on one side. They can be made of wood or plastic, although plastic ones may not have a tension screw. Place the fabric you are going to embroider over the smaller hoop. Place the larger hoop over the fabric and push it onto the smaller hoop – you will find that the larger hoop is stretchy to enable you to do this. Pull the fabric taut and tighten the tension screw. The fabric is now ready to embroider.

      Starting and finishing stitching

       Iron-on lightweight interfacing can be ironed over the back of the work to hide the knots and stray ends.

       Thread your needle – never use more than a short arm’s