Not the West Highland Way. Ronald Turnbull

than some: while the 3km still to do are among the best.

      On the northeast ridge of Ben Lomond, descending towards Ptarmigan ridge

      Use the previous route (Rowardennan outing: Ben Lomond) to Ben Lomond summit, and down the northeast ridge to the levelling at 768m. The pathless walking starts pleasantly, down the grassy ridge northwards. The going is briefly rough through the Bealach Cruinn a’ Bheinn, but easier again as you head up between small outcrops to Cruinn a’ Bheinn itself. Cruinn a’ Bheinn, pronounced Crinaven, means ‘round hill’. As a Scottish hill of over 2000ft, it’s classed as a Graham.

      Cruinn a’ Bheinn is ringed with small crags, but if you head carefully down northwest, following a fence line, there’s a grassy break. Follow the fence onwards into tussocky rough moorland. Cross this across its highest point. As the ground rises slightly, you meet a firm stony track. This leads down to the left in steep zigzags to Cailness cottage. Just below, the WH Way path runs along the shoreline.

      Turn right for 3km to Inversnaid.

      INVERSNAID TO INVERARNAN

      The shoreline walk continues northwards, always pleasant and in places rather rough. Indeed, the 4.5km north of Inversnaid are the most rugged part of the WH Way – though in terms of the mountain deviations in this book, that’s still only moderate ruggedness.

      Overhead, the higher route along pathless Beinn a’ Choin is also rather rough. So either way you get at least a feeling of what this country was like in the time of Rob Roy before the coming of the roads. For full authenticity you’d need to have soft deerskin moccasins, non-waterproof clothing, some redcoats in pursuit and the midges flying in underneath your kilt.

      WH WAY: INVERSNAID TO INVERARNAN

Distance	10km (6 miles)
Approximate time	2.5hr
Not the WH Way	4 Hill Crossing: Beinn a’ Choin
	5 Inverarnan Outing: Beinn Chabhair

      North from Inversnaid, the lochside track soon diminishes to a wide path. After 500 metres from the hotel, an RSPB trail turns up right for a brief steep excursion into the trees, the main path continuing more easily at the same level. Soon after this, though, the main path itself becomes rugged as it passes below a crag and descends steeply to where a sign points back left for Rob Roy’s Cave. It’s worth spending half an hour exploring the tumble of boulders where wild goats now sleep in the former bed of the brigand. The main path continues above the shoreline, still rugged and narrow. It passes through a clearing with the ruins of Pollochro, then crosses a meadow and heads uphill in a shallow valley. After 500 metres it descends, to pass Doune Byre bothy.

      Ben Lui, Cnap Mor and the head of Loch Lomond, from the WH Way near Doune

      The path gradually drops to the shore, with views across to Ben Vorlich. It climbs away from the shore again, and a side-path leads down to the pier for the Ardlui ferry. The main path passes above the head of the loch, into the col behind Cnap Mor, the ‘big hummock’.

      Small hill side-trip: Cnap Mor